Israeli Wine Review: Clos de Gat Har'El Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Charley BinderOkay, I admit it: I think I've only ever had one Israeli wine before in my life and that was at seder many, many years ago when I definitely used it more during the reciting of the 10 plagues than drinking. Much has changed since then and I am excited to be trying and reviewing the wines of Israel and discovering more about the important role the vine plays in that beautiful land. With such varied climate, elevation and soil types throughout, Israel is creating a fascinating range and styles of wine that are a perfect meeting of the Old and New Worlds... which pretty much describes the country itself.
My first assignment for Shalom Life is the Har'El Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 from Clos de Gat. Located in the Judean Hills, Clos de Gat (a combo of the French 'clos' meaning enclosure and the Hebrew 'gat' meaning winepress) has a vineyard of 47 acres (19 hectares), centered around a 3,000 year old winepress pre-dating Roman times. The soil is limestone-based and stony and the arid summer days with cool nighttime temperatures make the area a perfect home to the indigenous species of Southern France. The non-kosher winery also takes pride in fermenting only with wild yeasts to further distinguish a sense of terroir in each of its wines.
After a minute or so of opening up in the glass, this deep, ruby-purple wine was no doubt a young Cab. Black and red fruit - a bit of blackberry, raspberry and even a bit of prune - green pepper and twinges of pine slowly but surely emerge on the nose. In the mouth, there was more raspberry, blueberry and the rich, juiciness of overripe strawberry combined with a bit of oak that comes from this wine being aged in 30% new French oak for 12 months.
The wine is quite dry and medium plus to full elsewhere: tannins, acidity, body and finish. Small percentages of Merlot and Petit Verdot balance the mouthfeel and vegetal notes and will help soften the grippy tannins over the next few years. Good on its own but better with food, this wine can stand up to a juicy and fatty rib steak but isn't too big for pasta in a rich rose or saucy pork ribs - that's right, I went there. The winery recommends drinking this wine between 3-8 years from the vintage and while it was definitely enjoyably now, I can see it only getting better.
About Charley:
Charley Binder is an art consultant, bartender and oenophile from Toronto. She is currently taking her second level of courses through the International Sommelier Guild, pursuing a sommelier certification. To help her study and absorb all that she's learning (other than through her taste buds), she began a blog at redwhiteandbroke.wordpress.com. You should check it out.
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